The best and worst of visiting Negril, Jamaica

Jamaica: dreadlocks, reggae, relaxed beaches, steel drums, pirates, rum, and of course bobsledding.

These are the first 7 things that instantly come to mind when I think of Jamaica. Through pop culture, stereotypes or both, this pretty well sums up how the world views Jamaica from afar. But what is it actually like?

Is it the idyllic haven that we picture? Does it actually boast miles of uninterrupted sandy coastline to enjoy the sparkling waters? The answer is both yes and no. I have mixed feelings when I look back on my April trip to Jamaica and here’s why:

The beaches are absolutely stunning

I stayed at Negril, mainly because it seemed less built up than other tourist hotspots as Montego Bay and Ochos Rios, but also because it boasted a 7 Mile Beach. Now I’m not sure if that’s it actual distance or just the name, but either way it was a long, long stretch of perfectly white sand, bounded by beautiful turquoise water.

The locals can often be a pain in the arse

When I say the views are uninterrupted, this is of course ignoring the very many locals trying to flog their shit to you every day. Cigars, baked goods, fruit, hand crafts (probably imported), and most often some Mary Jane.

If you are walking along the beach or just enjoying the serenity in the front row of chairs to the water you can be sure that your view and your book will be interrupted very soon. The only guaranteed safe place is in the water.

Amazing Jerk Chicken and fresh seafood.

Apparently, Jamaica is famous for its jerk chicken. I didn’t know this but I soon found out why they would think so. It is damn good. Beautifully roasted or fried chicken combined with spicy pepper sauce makes it an easy choice from the menu.

Also, being an island in the Caribbean fishing is quite common so you will be hard pressed to find fresher fish. I have previously written about my amazing local food experiences in this post here.

You might feel trapped in paradise

What I mean is it’s very hard to actually escape the tourist bubble and experience real Jamaican culture. One of the biggest annoyances in Negril was that it lives and breathes tourism. 7 Mile Beach is dotted with as many resorts as it will fit.

I wouldn’t normally mind this given the circumstances, but to leave this resort bubble to see some of the amazing rainforests or waterfalls that Jamaica offers you need to either hire a car, get a taxi or go on a tour: none of which are cheap. This also makes it extremely difficult for those like myself who like to see local villages, markets and so on to get a feel for the real Jamaica.

Ludicrously cheap beer and rum

This one sort of doesn’t need explaining, but bottles of Jamaica’s finest Red Stripe beer go for a measly $2 everywhere. Other beers aren’t too much more.

Rum on the other hand, while I never got it at a restaurant I did buy a small bottle of it (probably 200mL or so) for about $5. This may not seem that cheap for anyone who has visited Southeast Asia, but coming from Australia it most certainly is.

The local hasslers

The hasslers on the beach are probably the most persistent (read: annoying) I’ve ever experienced. I mentioned above that the local hustlers are everywhere, but they are also relentless.

I actually had a beer with one of them when he was off-shift – (He conned me into buying one for him). He was a nice dude, but just worked for sales commissions by hustling on the beach. It’s really easy to get annoyed at these people but they are just doing their job.

The water is beautiful to swim in and look at

Beautifully calm as far as the eye can see, blue, and safe. Not much more needs to be said.

 

The prevalence of Mary Jane

Marijuana is everywhere. Everyone is smoking it. Everyone is selling it. And no one seems to care that it actually isn’t legal. Depending on your particular hobbies and interests this may be a positive or a negative. But for me, as the only thing I smoke is cigars, it got real old, real fast.

When I turned down offers some locals actually got angry that I didn’t want to buy it from them, that I wanted to go back and buy it from the resort. What an idiot, if I wanted to buy it I would have jumped at the chance and bought it straight away. It was as if the thought that someone may not actually want to smoke marijuana had never actually crossed his mind.

The sunsets

Lastly, I experienced the absolute best sunset I think I’ve ever seen. And this coming from someone who grew up in a house that overlooks a lake. I’ve seen plenty of good sunsets in my time and this one definitely takes the cake.

Book your own sunset tour here.

 

I found it hard to get off the beaten path in Jamaica, but the folks at Road Affair have found a way, check them out for more info.

Hotels are actually very reasonably priced in Negril. Well, at least some are. Of course, there are plenty of ultra-luxury, all-inclusive resorts. But I found there was something for all budgets. If the Caribbean is on your radar, search below to see what’s in your own budget.
Booking.com

It’s hard for every trip you plan to reach your expectations. Negril, Jamaica didn’t exactly hit the nail on the head. Where have you been that you had mixed feelings for?

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